Sewing Tutorials

Laying out your pattern correctly is one of the most important steps of the garment construction process. Now that your fabric is pre-washed, cut on grain, ironed, and blocked, you may now begin to place your pattern pieces on your fabric. Lately I have been enjoying sewing my selvages together (instead of pinning) as it also helps iron out wrinkles that happen to congregate around the selvage. OK, lets get started. Roughly lay out all of your pattern pieces referring to the pattern layout guide in your tutorial. Do this first to make sure they will all fit. Place bodice...

Thread Tension - Your sewing machine should have balanced thread tension, this will yield a balanced stitch aesthetically as well as physically. Thread tension can be adjusted by the top thread and the bobbin thread. It is best to first troubleshoot with the top thread tension. Stay tuned for a more in depth tutorial on troubleshooting thread tension), but for now just know it is a thing, and it is important! Foot Pressure - You most likely will not need to play around with your foot pressure, but know if you are having trouble getting over bulky seams, or your...

Please utilize this glossary to assist navigating the Signature Box Top Pattern as well as Simple Box Top Construction Instructions.   Pattern Terminology Grainline -  Refers to the direction of the lengthwise grain on your fabric and indicates how you place your pattern piece on the fabric. A grainline on a pattern piece always follows the warp and runs parallel to the selvedge. This will be a long line with arrows on your pattern piece. Seam Allowance – Seam allowance is the distance (usually in 1/8’’ increments) between the fabric edge and stitch line when two materials are sewn together. Seam...

Preparing Bias Strips Your pattern may leave excess space for creating a stash of bias strips/tape. This is a great way to utilize excess fabric. The Third Born Simple Box Top will have a decent sized square for you to utilize to make your own bias strips. Cut strips on the true bias (45 degrees from the selvage) by using a clear ruler to draw 1 inch parallel lines with a pen. "FriXion Pens" are a great option as they erase with heat from an iron. You can easily order FriXion pens online or find them in the "office" section of...

Hemming seems simple, but it is a step that oddly be fairly difficult, especially with a slightly curved hem and fabric that slightly expands when stitching such as a lightweight linen. Hemming is usually one of the last steps of the garment construction process so it is also very easy to rush and then be left with disappointment if something goes awry.  A couple tips will help things go a little easier for you: Make sure you use an iron when pressing hems. Make sure your iron is set on a steam setting and has plenty of water. Fold hem...