Sewing Techniques - Referrence Guide

Understitching can create a more polished look for necklines, and can help prevent a neck facing from shifting out of place. Finger press the seam allowance up towards the neck facing. This is in preparation to stitch the neck facing to the seam allowance. Make sure the seam allowance is pressed towards neck facing. Start at shoulder seam, understitch 1/8'' from edge of neckline seam. End understitch about 1'' from center front. Note under stitch is not on outside of shirt. Do the same technique to the other side. This side is a bit trickier, you will need to invert...

WHAT Stay stitching is an important preliminary step to constructing your garment. A stay stitch is stitching along a raw edge of a single pattern piece in order to prevent stretching or neckline or armhole. WHY It ins't uncommon to skip this step when you are more experienced with a particular textile or garment, but it is definitely a good idea to stay stitch when you are constructing something for the first time, or are deciding to design/self draft your own pieces. This will allow you to critique your pattern without external factors such as fabric stretching affecting your future...

Why Make Your Own bias strips instead of buying bias tape? I just want to point out that if you desire, you can purchase pre-folded bias tape. It is typically sold online often in polyester (or a blend of polyester and cotton). I prefer to match my neckline finish exactly with the fabric I am sewing the garment with, so making my own bias strips is just a personal preference (personal preference comes into play a lot with sewing). Making my own bias strips is also effort to utilize fabric that is often leftover so it does not go to...

 This tutorial will only cover how to execute sewing bias tape onto a v-neck on a scrap piece of fabric. To see a full tutorial on how to make your own 1'' bias strips, visit tutorial "Making Your Own Bias Strips".  For a full tutorial on how to apply 1'' bias  facing to a crew neck or arm hole (closing a continuous loop), visit "Bias Facings For Necklines and Armholes." Helpful tools for this sewing technique include: a clear ruler, "frixion" pen or tailors chalk, pins, scissors for clipping fabric (I prefer a small pair with a fine point). I...

Over the years of sewing garments there are simple techniques that I have learned that have transformed the quality and polished look of my work. Bias facings are one of them. There are a couple ways to approach sewing a bias facing onto a neckline, one using a 1'' strip (not pre-folded), and another using a pre-folded bias tape (must use a bias tape maker) . The finished result for both of these approaches is ultimately the same, but I find using the 1'' strip (not pre-folded) yields a slightly less bulky finish as there is one less fold in...