This tutorial will only cover how to execute sewing bias tape onto a v-neck on a scrap piece of fabric. To see a full tutorial on how to make your own 1'' bias strips, visit tutorial "Making Your Own Bias Strips". For a full tutorial on how to apply 1'' bias facing to a crew neck or arm hole (closing a continuous loop), visit "Bias Facings For Necklines and Armholes."
Helpful tools for this sewing technique include: a clear ruler, "frixion" pen or tailors chalk, pins, scissors for clipping fabric (I prefer a small pair with a fine point).
I highly recommend practicing on some scraps before perusing this on your first garment (especially with cherished fabric/a special project). The more you practice, the more intuitive this process will become.
Lets get started. Below you see a v-neck shape on a scrap piece of fabric and a 1'' bias strip. Start this process with right side of garment facing up.
Find the pivot point of v-neck. First seam allowance attaching bias strip will be 1/4'', so draw two intersecting lines 1/4'' from edge of v-neck to find point.
Pivot point is clearly marked below.
Next you will prepare to attach bias strip to one side first only (making sure to end and back tack at pivot point).
Pin only one side of bias tape down and make sure to mark pivot point with tip of pin. Pin only as needed (I find pins get in the way so only mark the pivot point). Again, make sure the right side of your garment is facing up (or right sides together of bias facing and garment if you fabric has a face/pattern).
Below we have the first stitch (back tack ending exactly at pivot point).
Fold bias strip as picture below. Fold should butt up right against pivot point and be angled straight down garment center front (or back).
Fold a second fold as pictured below. Line up edge of second fold with angle of first bias strip.
Mark pivot point with pin, and pin as needed.
Insert needle at pivot point. Continue stitching neckline at 1/4 seam allowance.
Pinch fabric so bias strip excess straight down and flush against bodice, so forms a "mitered corner."
Observe new crease.
Pin as needed, and stitch marked line. Do not stitch through garment bodice (pull away from bias strip). Consider using a smaller stitch length (1-1.5mm) for this step. Make sure to back-tack at start and end.
Insert needle right at intersect of marked line and stitch line.
It should now look like below:
Trim down excess/bulk.
Flip over, and snip into seam allowance right up to point (this step is very important to create sharp corner).
Press bias facing towards inside of garment. Under-stitch bias facing to seam allowance (get as close as you can to point),
Focusing on one side at a time, create fold in bias strip (essentially tucking raw edge under) by folding strip to match stitch line.
Fold should be continuous to end of angle as pictured below.
Fold over one more time. Pin as needed in place.
Now on the other side, do the same.
Again, fold should be continuous to end of angle.
Pin as needed. Folds may be sticking out a bit before pinning. this is when you do you best to tuck folds under and pin to conceal.
Folds now concealed under bias facing with a little pinning:
Stitch bias facing into place, make sure to pivot at tip (reduce stitch length to 1mm) to help with accuracy as you approach point. Lift foot and pivot to second angle, tuck in folds as needed as you go).
Press v-neck flat. (Note my example is far from perfection especially without matching thread. Matching thread will help make things look more polished of course, but don't be too hard on yourself wit your results on the inside of the garment, this process is tricky and the exterior results from this process is actually quite forgiving as long as you accurately find the pivot point).
Flip over and obverse exterior of garment. Give it a final press.