Sun Day Hat Tutorial

 

DESIGN

The Sun Day Hat was designed to offer a casual sun hat for sitting on a sunny patio or garden on a hot summer day. This hat is a little loose to offer a bit of shade but still breathable. Size down or consider adding a draw string/elastic tightening feature for a beach day hat. This hat is offered in sizes XS-XL. Size chart included in pattern.

SEAM ALLOWANCE

All seams on Sun Day Hat Pattern are 1/4'' seam allowance (0.5cm).

 

ASSEMBLING TOP HAT PIECES

You should have ONE side hat front panel, and TWO side hat back panels. Make sure you mark center back seams with two notches.

Stitch center back seams together, 1/4'' Seam Allowance (0.5 cm).

Attach front panel to side panels as depicted below (1/4'' seam allowance):

Finish raw edges (serger or zig zag stitch), and top stitch if desired.

Find quarter points of side hat. Do this by marking center front and center back as depicted below with a pin).

Match center front and center back pins to find quarter points, place pin at folds marking side points of hat.

Match center back seam with center back notch of top hat pattern piece (pinning right sides together). Top hat pattern piece is an oval (does not have a distinguished front and back, just know that the front and back are at the long ends of the oval).

Double check you are pinning right sides together as depicted below:

Continue pinning top hat to right side of side hat. Match center front, and side points.  Pin additionally as needed easing edges together.

Top hat pinned together as depicted below:

Stitch top hat to side hat 1/4'' seam allowance. Finish raw edges with serger finish or zig-zag stitch.

Flip inside out, finger press seams, and set top hat aside. Now time to sew the brim.

 

ASSEMBLING HAT BRIM

Brim interfacing pieces: You should have 1X front brim hat piece, and 2X back brim hat pieces (mirror images). Mark center back seams with two notches, side seams with 1 notch to differentiate. SEAMS MATTER AS TOP HAT IS AN OVAL SHAPE!

You should have 2X front brim hat piece, and 4X back brim hat pieces (set of mirror images).

Interface one set as depicted below:

Connect center back seams first, and then side seams of brim hat (interfaced pieces only).

Trim seam allowances to reduce bulk. Press seam back towards center back.

Press seam back towards front.

Do the same process for non brim pieces, pressing side seams towards back. Make sure to connect center back seams together first. Then stitch side seams.

Place interfaced brim on top of non-interfaced brim, right sides together.

Pin seams together, make sure seams are pressed in opposite directions on center back and side seams.

Pin exterior and interior edges together to make brims match in shape and size as best as possible (they may not match perfectly due to human error cutting). Trim excess if needed to true up pattern pieces).

Pin around perimeter of brim ONLY, 1/4 seam allowance from edge. Stitch with a 1.5mm stitch length for strong seam (you will be clipping into seam in next step).

Press brim flat, then clip triangles out of exterior seam about 1/2 inch apart, all the way around perimeter. Do not cut into the stitch line!

Clipping into a seam allowance along a curve helps allows the seam to have a smoother appearance when turned inside out. This can a helpful step in many clothing sewing patterns with convex seams such as this hat. 

Flip brim so right sides are facing out.

Finger press along seam outer seam to make as smooth as possible.

Press flat and pin inner seams together as needed (this is just to stabilize brim to lay flat).

Top stitch around perimeter 1/4 inch from edge.

If you please, you can top stich stitch more rings moving in 1/4'' at a time. Up to you! I left mine with just one stitch around the edge.

ATTACHING TOP HAT TO BRIM

Make sure your top hat is quartered off as depicted below. (Pin center back and center front, then match CF to CB pins to find quarter points).

Pin right side of center back of top hat to center back of brim. (I like to place interfaced side on bottom of hat, but this doesn't seem to be too crucial of a decision so don't fret if yours brim ends up flipped with the interfaced side on top). 

You will then flip top hat inside out, and pin brim inside hat making sure to match center front notches and side notches.

Stitch together 1/4'' seam allowance. It is easier if you have the brim pieces facing up as you stitch.

Finger press seams up towards top hat.

Cut out a bias strip 1.5 inches wide (about 1 inch longer than hat circumference in your size).

Fold one edge in 1/4''.

Attach to raw edge like depicted below.

Stitch 1/4'' from edge. (Start about 1 inch from end of bias strip, in back of hat).

End about 1'' from stitch start point to give room to close loop. 

Pinch excess together and pin so and lays flush with hat brim. Stitch across pin to close loop. raw edges should be facing up as picture below (will be hidden once you press bias strip up towards top hat.

Stitch across pinned line to close loop. **Finish stitching bias strip to hat (I missed getting a picture of this), will redo soon!**

Press bias strip up towards top hat.

With outside of hat facing up, and bias strip pressed towards top hat, top stitch 1/4'' from brim seam to secure bias strip in place and secure raw edges.

 

You are now done sewing your Sun Day Hat! Please feel free to add features to make hat even better!